About the place
In May 2021, I led two consecutive groups in southeastern Turkey during the total COVID-19 lockdown and Ramadan. Time seemed frozen—everything was closed except for pastry and grocery stores. The streets were nearly deserted, with just a few lonely souls wandering the empty thoroughfares, adding to the apocalyptic atmosphere. It felt as though an invisible hand had swept away all humanity, leaving only lifeless structures behind.
Only a few children played in the streets, and foreign tourists were rare, except at popular sites like Göbekli Tepe. The lockdown gave me a unique opportunity to explore the city without the usual crowds, noise, and pollution.
Gaziantep, often called Antep, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It's renowned for its cuisine—particularly its pistachios and baklava—and is considered the culinary capital of southeastern Turkey. The city even has a culinary museum, though I couldn't visit it.
The Almaci market is beautiful—a typical Oriental bazaar similar to Istanbul's Covered Market. During the lockdown, it offered the most striking atmosphere of emptiness, with shuttered stores and deserted walkways creating an otherworldly scene.
When the lockdown was lifted, I returned to the market. The transformation was remarkable—crowds filled the walkways, exotic spices perfumed the air, flowers brightened the stalls, the aroma of roasting wafted through the lanes, and elderly locals gathered for their morning tea. It was an entirely different world!
The Gaziantep Fortress stands as the city's main attraction. While its original construction date remains unknown, the fortress underwent significant rebuilds—first by the Byzantines in the 6th century, then by Egyptian Sultan Qaitbay in 1481. The final reconstruction occurred in 1557 under Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, who added observation towers, mosques, and residences. Today, the fortress features 36 round towers. Beneath the structure, it's believed that hidden galleries and passages exist, possibly leading to the river.
The ruins of the ancient city of Belkis (Zeugma) lie in the village of Kavunlu, 10 km from the city. Gaziantep is home to the world's second-largest mosaic museum, opened in June 2005 (the largest is in Bardot, Tunisia). The museum showcases exquisite mosaic pieces, a statue of Mars, and other artifacts—making it an essential stop for visitors.
The historic houses of Gaziantep, concentrated in the city center, beautifully represent the architectural and cultural heritage of Southeastern Anatolia, Mesopotamia, and Syria. Adapted to the hot climate, these stone houses feature high surrounding walls, spacious courtyards, and flat roofs.
The city has many mosques. I managed to photograph at least 10 of them. Although they follow the Islamic building canon, the mosques in Gaziantep are different, mainly because of the richness of their decorations.
The city is beautiful and rich, the people are great, and the food is delicious. So if you have never considered traveling to Gaziantep, it is time to reconsider.
The easiest way to reach Gaziantep is by plane. The city is well connected with daily flights to major Turkish cities, including 2-3 daily flights from Istanbul. The airport lies 15 km from the city center, and you can reach it via the Havaş shuttle service (10 lira). The busses depart from the airport after most arriving flights. It takes 30 minutes to reach the city centre.
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