Journey to Oymyakon - The Pole of Cold in Yakutia, Russia (Part I

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Yakutsk is black and white
Yakutsk in winter
Museum of Music and Folklore of the Peoples of Yakutia
Kingdom of Eternal Frost
The Fish Market in Yakutsk
The Beautiful Old House with an Interesting History
The Old Yakutsk
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The plane landed at high speed at Yakutsk airport, capital of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). It touched down firmly on the icy runway, sending up clouds of snow mixed with steam. Snow blanketed everything. People appeared on the runway, bundled up like mummies. The flight attendant announced the temperature: minus 41 degrees. I gazed out the window as the plane taxied slowly, trying to imagine that kind of cold. Would there be an air bridge, or would we have to walk—or take a shuttle—to the terminal? The first encounter with the extreme cold came during the transition to the air bridge... and yes, it immediately became clear what we were about to face—the Yakutsk cold!

We spent a few more minutes outside: from the terminal to the bus, then from the bus to the hotel's outer door. The difference between "outside" and "inside" was stark. Inside, temperatures stayed around 25–30 degrees. Outside, they ranged from minus 25 to minus 45 degrees. The coldest temperature we encountered was in Oymyakon the evening we arrived—minus 48 to 49 degrees. The warmest was somewhere along the way, around minus 25 degrees.

The hotel, located in a large residential building in central Yakutsk, was clean and warm. The receptionists were friendly, though they were oddly slow to press the button that opened the front door—in nearly 80% of cases. Once, we grew concerned when no one opened the door for almost 10 minutes, and it was really cold outside. But everything else about the hotel was excellent.

Yakutsk is black and white

Yakutsk, the capital of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), is the coldest city in the world. In January, average temperatures hover around minus 40 degrees. The city sits on the Lena River—the easternmost of Siberia's three mighty rivers and the second most voluminous after the Yenisei. What began as a small wooden fortress built by Russian Cossacks in 1632 has grown into a bustling city of over 270,000 people. The urban landscape blends modern high-rises, Soviet-era blocks, and traditional wooden houses. Built on permafrost, most structures rest on specialized concrete pillars that prevent building heat from thawing the frozen ground below. In winter, Yakutsk is often shrouded in fog—warm air from houses, people, and vehicles gets trapped near the ground. This creates a mystical atmosphere that draws photographers and adventure-seekers from around the world.

Yakutsk in winter

We changed into warmer clothes and began our city tour.

Our first stop was a dog breeding center, where we rode in a dog sled. The dogs were fine, but the attraction felt touristy. The ride was somewhat exciting, though other destinations offer better-organized experiences.

Museum of Music and Folklore of the Peoples of Yakutia

Next, we visited the Museum of Music and Folklore of the Peoples of Yakutia. A young woman in traditional attire shared stories about Yakut culture, customs, and history. The museum is clearly a family endeavor—all the items were collected by family members. We also listened to an older woman demonstrate shamanic and other traditional practices. As we left, she gave each of us a lucky charm, accompanied by a shy smile and words of gratitude.

During my travels in this region, I often receive questions about shamans and shamanism. However, shamanism is a fading tradition. Finding a genuine shaman or witnessing a real shamanic ceremony is nearly impossible. Even practicing shamans tend to be elusive and uninterested in tourists. Tour guides, even knowledgeable ones, usually avoid this topic tactfully.

Kingdom of Eternal Frost

We visited the "Kingdom of Eternal Frost" (Царство ве́чной мерзлоты́)—underground galleries filled with ice sculptures. Inside, the temperature stays at a constant minus 6 degrees Celsius year-round, feeling almost warm compared to the minus 30 degrees outside. The ice figures were stunning, displaying remarkable craftsmanship. Attractions included an ice slide, ice throne, and ice bed. Surprisingly, ice carving is not a traditional Yakut craft. Japanese visitors introduced the technique to the locals, and since then, Yakut artists have mastered this art form, even winning international competitions. Today, beautiful ice sculptures appear throughout the city—even in front of apartment buildings—creating a unique atmosphere where harsh cold meets the fantastical beauty of ice art.

The Fish Market in Yakutsk

The Yakutsk Fish Market is unique—it operates in minus 40 degrees Celsius. Despite the harsh conditions, the market thrives, selling fish, meat, forest fruits, and other items unrecognizable to the unfamiliar eye. Everything is naturally frozen by the frigid temperatures, making it a market unlike any other in the world.

The surreal feeling comes from the contrast between bustling market activity and the frozen landscape. Yet this is reality for the people of Yakutsk, who have adapted to their environment and turned it into an advantage.

We spent some time observing and photographing the peculiar fish, frozen at the exact moment they were pulled from the water. They resembled sculptures created by an eccentric artist with a frozen brain. At one point, we noticed two locals cutting a large fish with a saw. When they saw me taking pictures, they smiled and waved. I had read that vendors generally dislike being photographed but make exceptions for foreigners, so I spoke to them in English to make clear I was one. We didn't stay more than 15 minutes—despite our warm clothing, our brains started to freeze. We quickly returned to the bus. Throughout the experience, I couldn't help but wonder how an elderly woman, approximately 70 years old, could withstand the cold and sell those frozen fish.

The Beautiful Old House with an Interesting History

Our bus took us to the shores of the frozen Lena River, where we could see the port. We stopped at an old house that gave no hint of what lay inside. The 130-year-old wooden house had vibrant colors, reminiscent of houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. Upon entering, however, we were greeted by a spacious, modern beauty studio. The owner—a well-maintained middle-aged woman dressed in a knee-length dress—warmly welcomed us and guided us through the rooms, sharing the building's story.

This old house, once owned by the warden of Yakutsk's prison, now serves a new purpose: catering to women who aspire to enhance their beauty. It rivals any luxurious beauty salon in Bulgaria in appearance and ambiance. In this city, it seemed unique combinations were vying for attention with their extravagance. Before the current owners acquired the house, a student discovered a significant amount of gold in the attic. He received 25% of its value as a reward. One can only speculate about the events that unfolded within these walls while under the prison warden's ownership.

The Old Yakutsk

As darkness fell, we ventured through the old section of Yakutsk, where ancient, colorful wooden houses still stand. I returned to this area later on my own. Despite the twilight, I explored the entire neighborhood and captured images of the iconic old houses. Many are already in disrepair, teetering on the brink of collapse. Others are well-maintained, clearly looked after by their owners. Amidst these structures, towering new buildings are slowly emerging. The juxtaposition of modern blocks against smoking chimneys from heating plants seemed surreal. The clash of new and old, in minus 40-degree temperatures, was precisely what I sought in the desolate streets of Old Yakutsk. As darkness enveloped the city, street lamps illuminated the way while residents hurried through the frozen fog. I thoroughly enjoyed everything I witnessed today.

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