The story
On our final day in Syria, we visited the ancient ruins of Palmyra. At a military checkpoint on our way into the city, the soldiers surprised us by offering coffee. As we drove through the desert, we passed villages ravaged by war and an abandoned Russian military base. Then the ruins of Palmyra emerged, rising majestically from the sandy landscape.
The city we drove through bore deep scars of war. Once a thriving community of 50,000 people, Palmyra now houses only 2,000-3,000 residents. Buildings stand in disrepair, streets lie empty, and signs of destruction are everywhere.
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In the partially destroyed Palmyra Museum, we encountered an apocalyptic scene. Scattered statues, mosaics, and artifacts lay about, some with their faces smeared or broken. Though museum workers had managed to move most artifacts to safety in Damascus before ISIS's 2015 attack, some significant pieces remained behind.
A bit later, we entered the ancient city of Palmyra. Except for a few soldiers, we had the entire archaeological complex to ourselves.
Palmyra—whose Greek name translates from the Aramaic "Tadmor," meaning palm—lies 215 km from Damascus and 120 km from the Euphrates River. It stands as the only significant oasis in the Syrian desert. Founded in the second millennium BC, the city flourished as a major center of trade and knowledge during the 1st-3rd centuries. Palmyra served as a crucial stop along the caravan route through the Syrian desert until its destruction by the Romans in 273 AD.
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We wandered through the archaeological complex as our guide narrated its history, pointing out what ISIS had destroyed and what remained intact.
The Grand Colonnade of Palmyra, a Roman-era street stretching 1,100 meters, connects the Temple of Bel to the Diocletian Camp district. The ancient city also features other remarkable structures, including the Agora, a Roman theatre, and residential buildings. Together, these architectural elements stand as prime examples of Roman craftsmanship in the Eastern Mediterranean.
The wealthy residents of ancient Palmyra were buried in grand tombs situated outside the city walls. Archaeologists discovered numerous sculptures of affluent Palmyrans that dated back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BC within these tombs, indicating the city's prosperity and lively atmosphere.
However, when the government in Damascus lost control of Palmyra in 2011, looting began. Numerous artifacts from the ancient city have since surfaced on antique markets or been confiscated by Lebanese and Turkish customs officers.
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Palmyra fell victim to the Syrian civil war in 2015. On March 21 that year, the Islamic State seized control of the city and systematically destroyed numerous monuments of irreplaceable cultural and historical significance. The Syrian army, supported by the Russian Air Force, regained control of Palmyra on March 27, 2016.
During their occupation, ISIS created a system called Diwan al Rikaz that issued excavation permits in exchange for tax payments. These permits only covered artifacts without human representations, as ISIS required the destruction of objects depicting human figures. However, looters manipulated this system by submitting only unsellable items while secretly keeping valuable artifacts to sell later.
Much has been written about the city and the consequences of war, but it is impossible to cover everything here. As I slowly walked among the ruins, I pondered the fact that history does not always progress; it can also regress. This place had flourished thousands of years ago, yet now it lies in ruins. I recalled an article about a new theory of time, which suggests that the past, present, and future coexist in the universe. Despite its controversy, I believe this theory might explain some situations and experiences I have had during my travels, including the story of Palmyra (1).
I believe that the destroyed buildings in the ancient city, such as the Temple of Bel, should not be restored.
Despite the destruction, Palmyra retains its grandeur, and many monuments, buildings, columns, roads, and tombs can still be seen. As for whether you should visit Palmyra, my answer would be an absolute YES. It is worth it without hesitation.
We had lunch at a partially destroyed restaurant in Palmyra that the owners had managed to restore. Though the food was delicious, dining there felt surreal. I'm still processing the experience—Palmyra remains one of the most extraordinary places I've ever visited.
(1)
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